Thanks and Farewell

It’s hard to believe that ten and half months have come and gone and with it my mission to Afghanistan has drawn to an end.  My last month in Kabul was indeed a busy one. Evidently leaving Afghanistan is as difficult as getting into it.  I guess that is a pretty accurate reflection of the political situation in the country as well.  

Tonight, as I write my last blog entry from the comfort of my living room, I’m doing my best to reflect on the events of the last year.  It may be too soon for me to offer much insight to the big questions about the war, the costs to so many nations in terms of lives lost and treasure squandered, or what the future may hold for Afghanistan.  Remember that my experience in Afghanistan has been fairly narrow and I am nowhere near qualified to give sweeping opinions and prescriptions about competing strategies and national interests, the epic failures, or the unqualified successes. 

However, based on my nine months in Kabul I feel comfortable enough to offer up these nuggets.

·      The people of Afghanistan recognize the poor state of their country.  However, they are exhausted by thirty years of war and don’t have much of an appetite for the kind of civil action that we see in Libya, Syria, or Egypt.  They are wary of the expected military drawdown set for 2014 and the mood is one of uncertainty and genuine concern.

The Canadian Civilian Police Contingent gathered in Kabul for Remembrance Day.  You could hear the goosebumps snap to as the names of the Canadian soldiers killed in Afghanistan since the last Remembrance Day ceremony were read out loud.  This was without doubt the most solemn November 11 I've ever experienced.

·      Afghan men are often overlooked in the discussions of the perceived unfairness of Afghan arranged marriages.  I’ve had many conversations with young Afghan men about marriage.  Some have told me that they may never be able to get married because it is so difficult for them to scrape together enough money for the wedding and the marriage.  Even if they find the means almost all will have their bride picked for them by their mother or an older sibling. 

I can share one story in this regard involving one of the young Afghan police officers I worked with.  He was a likable young guy about 24 years old, always smiling, and always looking for a chance to practice his English, which was actually not too bad by local standards.  One morning he was really down in the dumps, clearly not himself, and was quite distracted. I asked him what was wrong.  He replied that he had just got engaged.  His older brother had picked a wife for him and this poor sod was clearly not happy with his brother’s selection.  I offered him a handshake of equal parts condolence and congratulation.  I asked his fiancée’s name and he couldn’t even recollect it.

I’m not trashing the practice of arranged marriages.  But looking at this guy it really struck me that the man’s plight in these deals is often overlooked by mainstream media and western opinion.  He’ll never fall in love and marry the girl of his dreams, he’ll never feel that love in return, and that is truly a great shame.  I can only think that it must feel like profound loneliness.  I can’t help but think and dread how that will affect his relationship with any children that he’ll have.

The Canadian flag signed by students at Westglen Elementary School in Edmonton was flown with great pride over Kabul early on the morning of Remembrance Day November 11, 2011. 

Bed bugs suck!  The only remedy is to burn your bedding.  Don’t itch the bites and don’t tell your spouse until the bites have all cleared up.  Apparently it’s a big turn-off.

·      People share as many commonalities as they do differences.  Once you find out what it is you have in common with each other you can really move the relationship forward.  It fosters trust and empathy.

·      I advised one Afghan investigator more than any other.  I called him my police partner and we had a good friendship.  As I read one of his affidavits that had been translated into English I came across his badge number.  As it turns out he and I each have the same regimental number.  Coincidence you say?  I don’t believe in coincidence, neither does he.

The send off cake lovingly decorated by my American colleagues.

·       There is no effort that is too small and distance is not an obstacle to making somebody’s life a little bit or a great deal better.  Take my mom for instance.  My mom wanted to do something to mark the occasion of having a son in Afghanistan.  She quilted hundreds of covers for those little Kleenex travel packs and sold them at farmer’s markets and bake sales.  She really built up some momentum and was even interviewed on local radio.  She got a nice boost from the High River Rotary Club and by the end of my mission she had raised over $1,500 for Canadian Women for Women in Afghanistan.  Way to go Mom!  Check out this NGO’s website: http://www.cw4wafghan.ca/

·      Canada is the best country in the world bar none!

·      My wife is an incredible woman.  Any success I have found is due to her support and encouragement.  I love her dearly.

·      Minus 30 degrees Celsius is still really cold regardless of how glad you are to get back to Edmonton!

If I am to sum up my experience in Afghanistan right at this moment I think I’d have to draw upon the farewell tea I shared with my Afghan colleagues.  As best as I can recollect I told them something like this:  “Afghanistan is now part of my family.  My wife knows all your names, my children know all your names and so will my friends.  When I hear news stories about Afghanistan I will think about each of you and your families.  I will see your faces and I will hope and pray that you are all safe.  Nothing will be the same for me as it was before.”

The Canadian flag flying with quiet pride over Kandahar Airfield on a windy evening in late February 2011.

Thanks for checking in, so long.

Ken.

Edmonton Cares

In previous postings I’ve talked about the wonderful work that the School of Leadership Afghanistan (SOLA) does here in Kabul to educate and prepare Afghanistan’s young women for leadership roles in their country.   Working quietly behind the scenes back in Edmonton, my lovely and talented wife N, along with my lovely and talented former squad mate JS, have been raising funds in support of SOLA.  Through their efforts and the generosity of members of the Edmonton Police Service, our families, and our friends, N and JS raised enough money to purchase 11 Kobo e-readers and a $300 gift certificate for SOLA.  Chapter’s bookstore generously loaded 55 books onto each e-reader, provided protective ‘skins’ for each e-reader, and offered continued technical support for SOLA.  

Acting Head of Mission Mr. MacKINNON and the Canadian Embassy generously hosted the event.

 The attraction of the Kobo e-reader is that all the e-readers can be synced to a single computer allowing each book to be installed on all 11 e-readers.  This is a great advantage to a school such as SOLA and will really stretch their fundraising dollars. E-books are cheaper to purchase than paper books, in fact many are free, and since they are available online there is no need to physically ship books to the school.  Essentially each book purchased or downloaded online will increase the SOLA library by 11 books.  It will assist the SOLA teachers and tutors a great deal as well.  This particular model of Kobo e-reader is also Wi-Fi ready so students can access the internet right from the e-reader.  The e-reader has a very long battery charge and has the capacity to store hundreds of books.  It is light, durable and travels very well.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to meet the SOLA staff and students and present the e-readers.  The event was generously hosted by the Canadian Embassy.  Acting Ambassador Mr. Phil MacKINNON welcomed the girls, congratulated them each on their academic achievements, thanked them for their commitment to Afghanistan, and encouraged them to follow their dreams.  Afterwards each of the girls introduced themselves and told us a little bit about how much SOLA has changed their lives and affected their opportunities for the future.  These young women were very impressive and were such confident public speakers.  One young woman had spoken her first English words only three weeks earlier.  For many it was their very first time riding an elevator. 

The girls were extremely thankful for the e-readers and could hardly believe what they were holding.  It was clear to me that the generosity of Edmonton’s police family deeply affected the staff and students of SOLA.  We take education, reading, and technology for granted but for these girls it is a rare and fleeting privilege.  It’s a fact of life here that an entire family will only be able to muster the resources to educate one or two of its children.  That’s a lot of pressure and responsibility and these girls certainly take their education seriously. 

All smiles

The event was unqualified success and everyone in attendance was lifted and inspired.  The staff members at the Canadian Embassy were wonderful hosts and visited with the girls over tea and cookies afterwards.  Acting Ambassador McKINNON asked me pass along his personal thanks and appreciation to the members of the Edmonton Police Service, N and JS, and our families and friends who generously donated the e-readers.  A number of businesses in Edmonton also showed their support: All Seezeon Signs, Chapters Bookstore, Erin Building Maintenance, Home Base Signs, Monier Construction, and Western Realty. Rest assured that your efforts and kindness are truly appreciated by strangers half way around the world.  It was a very special day and I am thankful.  

SOLA students meeting Embassy Staff

 I’ll leave the final words for one of the SOLA students who also works as the school’s Executive Assistant:

Dear Ken,

Hope to be fine and doing well and that you would have enjoyed the
presentation for SOLA group. Today the presentation was essential
learning for SOLA's students. Many of SOLA students liked meeting with
Canadian embassy elements. I am thankful to you and your prestigious
colleagues for the hospitality and gifting the priceless gifts of
E-Readers. I believe that SOLA student will use it in a benifited way
that you consider of.

WS,
Excutive Assistant of SOLA

The SOLA staff and students with their new Kobo e-readers courtesy of members of the Edmonton Police Service, Edmonton small businesses, family, and friends.  Special thanks were extended by Mr. MacKINNON to N and JS for their efforts.

Visit the SOLA homepage at http://www.sola-afghanistan.org/Home

Thanks for checking in.

Ken. 

Terry Fox Marathon of Hope

Terry Fox

One of the benefits of working on a multi-national mission such as the NATO International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) is the exposure to other cultures.  Of course, this is all the more sweet when you are showing off the traditions of your own great country.  So it was with great national pride that I brought three of my American colleagues to ISAF Headquarters today for the 9^th Annual ISAF HQ Terry Fox Run.  My colleagues had no idea about Terry or the Marathon of Hope.  Once I told them Terry’s story of courage and his tragic death they immediately agreed to come run 10 kilometers and make a donation for cancer research.  The run was organized by members of the Canadian Armed Forces.  There was a great Canadian BBQ that followed. The run raised between $8,000 and $9,000 for cancer research.  Want to know more about Terry Fox?  Check out the official Terry Fox site: http://www.terryfox.org/

Last year was the 30th Anniversary of the Terry Fox Marathon of Hope.

Bad knees and all the four of us finished our 10k run for the 9th Annual ISAF Terry Fox Marathon of Hope on 2011 September 16.

A few weeks ago one of my colleagues from the U.S. Army re-enlisted. Apparently it’s a tradition that the soldier who re-enlists gets to select the location for the ceremony.  In this case the young soldier chose to re-enlist at the summit of the mountain behind our camp.  It was a little smoggy that day but somewhere down there is the city of Kabul with its 7 million citizens.

On the mountain overlooking Kabul.

Getting sworn in.

If you’ve been following the news you know that Haqqani insurgents launched a suicide attack earlier this week in Kabul.   Several locations in the city were attacked  simultaneously, the most severe and sustained occurring near the U.S. Embassy and ISAF HQ.  Once that attack started the Afghan police immediately responded even while taking casualties.  The Afghan army assisted with heavy air support. They were supplemented with Afghan and NATO special forces and air support later on.  Bear in mind that the initial responders to the attacks were regular uniformed Afghan police officers working security checkpoints in the area.  They were lightly armed and had no heavy body armour.  The attackers eventually barricaded themselves in a high-rise building that was under construction and were all subsequently killed in fighting that lasted for 20 hours.  Afghan and NATO special forces had to enter that building to finish this fight.  All six insurgents were killed.  However, as is always the case, the police and residents paid a heavy toll.   Five police officers were killed,  eleven residents were killed, six of them children. Six coalition personnel were also injured.

International media have persistently criticized the capacity of the Afghans to provide security which after all is the whole reason all of us are over here.  Let me offer a couple of thoughts on this if I might.  Kabul is a huge city with heavy vehicle traffic at all times of day and night. The weapons used by insurgents are rifles, grenades, shoulder fired rockets, explosive vests, and occasionally larger weapons like a mortar.  All of these are very easy to conceal in commercial trucking; some under the back seat of a car, or even under a jacket.  This time, as on many previous occasions, the attackers disguised themselves in burquas to decrease their chances of detection.  It is extremely difficult to deal with heavily armed individuals in the close quarters of an urban setting.  Do you recall the footage from the Hollywood Bank of America robbery several years ago? That rolling gunfight lasted a long time and spread across a wide area.  Those bad guys didn’t have rockets, mortars, or suicide vests either.  Containing and controlling situations like these is not an easy proposition, especially when there are multiple simultaneous attacks taking place.  It is chaotic, bloody, and frightening. The Afghan police did not run away, rather, they advanced on the attackers, permanently contained them to a building, and kept up the fight until relieved by the Afghan and NATO special forces. I can tell you that this response is not unlike what we'd see in North America: front line patrol officers containing the barricaded shooter until relieved by the tactical team.  Check out these images taken during the attack and imagine yourself as one of the Afghan uniform police officers responding to this scenario: http://photos.denverpost.com/mediacenter/2011/09/photos-taliban-attacks-us-embassy-in-kabul-afghanistan-on-tuesday-september-13-2011/#2

It would be nice to see international media recognize the front line Afghan policeman’s view more often.  They are paid poorly, are killed en masse when attacks like this happen, and are not considered very valuable by the population they try to protect.  Did you know that in 2010 over 7,000 Afghan National Police officers were killed while doing their duties?  The police are definite underdogs in this fight yet most decide to keep at it.  They face huge challenges and without question they are moving forward.   I think that being an Afghan police officer may be one of the most dangerous jobs I can think of.

Recently I had a chance to present a small memento of appreciation to some our Afghan support staff.

 Thanks for checking in.

Ken.

Lessons Learned Volume 1

I’m well into the third quarter of my mission now and thought it might be appropriate to share a few of the lessons I’ve learned so far.  If you are considering coming to Kabul on any type of assignment these pointers may come in handy. Just remember that there is a context to all these observations and they are based mostly on my experience working on a secure facility in Kabul.  Make no mistake; serving in Kabul is a completely different experience than serving in other parts of Afghanistan.  In most ways Kabul is a more secure location and most of the Kabul Afghans are appreciative of the NATO presence.  Most children go to school, literacy rates are higher here than in most Afghan cities, the infrastructure is better, and people tend to be more in touch with what is happening in politics, business, and economics locally and internationally.  You’ll see lots of people on cell phones and many young people surf the web.  I’ve met many soldiers, diplomats, and police officers who work in other parts of Afghanistan and they’ll be quick to tell you that there are two very different wars going on in Afghanistan, the first being in Kabul and the second in the rest of the country.

So here, in no particular order, are some ‘nuggets of wisdom’ that have been passed down to me by veterans or that I have stumbled upon myself.  Much of what I will share relates to advising the Afghan police on criminal investigations.

• When dealing with Western advisors the Afghans tend to avoid confrontation. They will tend to agree with you, tell you that you are very wise and full of good ideas but in the end most times they will follow their own schedules and their own counsels.  This can be frustrating. Unless you are in a position to exercise some leverage such as funding or providing equipment you’d better quickly adjust your expectations of exactly how much you’ll be able to influence the Afghan military and police.  It is a slow process but our work here does advance their skill sets, capacities, and experience.

Driving through Kabul you are guaranteed to see a scene like this.  These small beasts haul huge loads of timber, pipes, and produce.  They can really motor along too.

• Similarly, one must always remember that we are guests in this country.  I can provide sound advice, good training, direction, and encouragement but in the end it is the Afghans who are in charge of their investigations.  This is exactly as it should be. But for results-oriented criminal investigators the pace and course of the investigation can be frustrating.

•  I must always remember that I really don’t know much about daily life in Kabul nor can I begin to appreciate the consequences of what 30 years of war has done to the Afghans emotionally, physically, or psychologically.  Try to practice empathy always.  When you look at an Afghan remember that it’s virtually guaranteed that they have lost at least one loved one in the last few years to insurgency-related violence.  They likely have a home full of people to support and few have the means to get by.  Every day is a struggle.  They are tired and without much hope that their situation will improve very much, if at all.

•  Don’t ever underestimate the dangers of being a member of the Afghan National Police.  In 2010 over 7,000 police officers were killed on duty.  Police die here in numbers almost every other day.  They and their families become targets of insurgents and the criminal mafias that infest every aspect of Afghan politics and business.

• Drink lots of bottled water everyday.

• Arrive in Afghanistan in good physical shape.  Stay fit and exercise while you are here. Exercise will keep you sane and provide a healthy avenue to burn off nervous energy, boredom, and anxiety.

An outdoor meat shop in Kabul.  We've driven past this shop a few times.  Once we saw the freshly butchered calf on the dirt in front of the shop and another one calf standing by the red stool apparently waiting for his turn. They skin the animal right there on the road and then hang it up.  I don't recommend eating street meat.

• Find a hobby or other distraction and use your downtime to be productive.  Most of the large camps have a wide variety of social activities and programs to fill your evenings.  Learn another language while you’re here, take some online courses if you can but do something.  It’s a long year otherwise.

• Don’t become too comfortable or complacent with security but also relax a bit.  We’ve seen some people so alert and jumpy that they simply can’t operate in this environment.  For them, every vehicle that passes in traffic is a car bomb, every traffic jam an ambush, every loud noise is an explosion.  You simply won’t last if you can’t manage the stress.  Be smart but don’t be paranoid.

• Figure out how to use Skype long before you get here.  Skype is a lifeline home.  I can’t imagine being without it.

One of the many graveyards in Kabul.  Those are headstones, most with no inscriptions.  Kids will play soccer in this particular cemetery which is actually quite a bit bigger than the picture suggests.  There is an even bigger one just down the road from this one you see here.

• Earthquakes happen, don’t freak out like I did when that first tremor rocks you.

• Bring as little as possible.  Everything you need can be found at the shops in the camps and bases.

• Seek out opportunities to get involved with some type of civil activity outside your particular job.  Make some connection to Afghanistan or Kabul outside your work.  You’ll be exposed to a whole different experience, one that is equally or even more satisfying.

• You will get sick, often.  Accept it.  It’s not always going to put you out of commission but when it hits hard you’ll know.  When you do become ill take it easy and rest for a couple of days.  The food in the mess halls is almost always fine but be very careful about eating any food from restaurants or markets.  I would not recommend it.  Always travel with some extra clean underwear and never, ever trust an Afghan fart!

• Finally, at least once find a cool place to meet your family for leave.  Try the island of Cephalonia, Greece....

or Bodrum, Turkey.

Thanks for checking in.

Ken.

Canada Day in Kabul

CANADA DAY 2011

KABUL, AFGHANISTAN

Yesterday a few members of the Canadian Civilian Police (CivPol) Contingent in Kabul celebrated Canada Day in the best way we know how....by having a ball hockey game.  My American colleagues graciously agreed to field a team and host the game here in our camp's gymnasium.  At 1000 hrs July 01 Team Canada took to the ice (gym floor) against Team U.S.A. Team Canada was anxious to win the cup....any cup...but a formidable Team U.S.A. looked to thwart our efforts. 

After our respective national anthems were played, the Canadian CivPol Commander and the DEA Regional Director dropped the ball and it was GAME ON!  The Americans got off to a quick lead with two goals but Canada charged back.  The American goalie, a veteran DEA Agent and former Detroit city copper, stood on his head to keep the score close.  However, Team Canada was not to be denied and hammered home four unanswered goals to close the first half with a 4-2 lead.  A few of our Afghan colleagues were watching and it may very well have been the first time they had seen hockey played.

The teams re-grouped at the break and chose to play soccer for the second half of the match.  The ball hockey had been intensely competitive and the blades were snapping off the hockey sticks faster than they could be repaired.  The soccer game started off tentative with both teams feeling each other out and testing each other's skills.  As the tempo of the players ramped up so did the cheers of the mostly American crowd who urged their heroes on towards victory.  However, it was the Canadians who won the day with a 5-2 victory.

The game was a tremendous good-natured morale boost for all involved.  The DEA presented the Candian CivPol Commander with the game balls which today are displayed with pride in the Canadian Embassy.  The DEA put on a wonderful barbeque after the game and there were lots of handshakes and backslapping to go around.  The Canadians were invited to field a team for a soccer re-match of sorts on Independence Day July 04.  It was a wonderful morning that we were happy to share with our American cousins.

After lunch I was lucky enough to witness a time-honoured American military tradition.  One of my colleagues was promoted from Lieutenant to Captain right here at our camp.  It was the first time many of us had attended such a ceremony and it was indeed a privilege to watch.  Congratulations to U.S. Army Captain H. LEE promoted in Afghanistan on Canada Day 2011!

In the evening Canadian soldiers and police officers met at Canada House at ISAF headquarters.  As the burgers sizzled on the grill we listened to Blue Rodeo and got to re-new friendships with some of the soldiers we had trained with back in Kingston.  General Bears awarded medals to several Canadian soldiers and gave a very fine speech to the crowd.

It was an exciting experience to celebrate Canada Day in Kabul.  Even though we are far away from home being surrounded by our friends and fellow Canadians made home feel just a little bit closer.  As the sun dropped down my colleagues and I geared back up and drove back to our respective camps.

It was a good day with good friends.

Thanks for checking in.

Ken.

Hitting Stride

I am several months into my deployment now and I have settled into my routine.  I don't have opportunities to travel beyond the same 4 or 5 destinations in Kabul so I'm afraid I have no new exciting travel adventures to share.  My work is extremely satisfying and I'm starting to hit stride.  I have shifted from primarily coordinating training towards advising on particular financial investigations.  My Afghan colleagues are very good to work with and they seem to be grasping the concepts I'm coaching them on.  In many respects its like being a Field Training Officer or Squad Sergeant.  All our conversations occur through a translator and I try and explain the same point several different ways to make sure that not too much is lost in translation.

I have a great deal of respect for my Afghan colleagues.  The targets that they pursue are wealthy and very connected.  A couple days ago we were discussing some basic surveillance opportunities.  I implored my Afghan partner to be honest with me and tell me if he considered any of my suggestions too risky. He smiled a bit and reminded me that we're investigating powerful suspects and it's easy for them to have somebody killed in Afghanistan, including a police officer.  He said for $1,500 USD people can be hired to do just that.  It was a sobering reminder of what these officers face while investigating serious crimes, especially financial crimes.  So far they haven't let me down in any way. 

I asked one of the investigators about what it was like growing up in Afghanistan.  He told me a story about when he was 10 years old and crossing with his family back into Afghanistan from Pakistan.  He said they had to cross a checkpoint that had been established by tribal fighters.  The fighters, all armed to the teeth, were extremely aggressive towards the officer's family and very quickly his father was pulled from their vehicle, pushed to the ground and had a rifle pressed up against his head.  The officer, 10-years old at the time recall, placed himself between the rifle's barrel and his father crying out loud while shielding his father.  The tribesmen, either amused or impressed, conceded and let the father live and allowed the family to pass.  This is a pretty typical story of the conditions in which people live, love, and die in Afghanistan.

Command of the Canadian Police Contingent in Afghanistan recently changed.  Many of the Canadian Police Officers, myself included, attended the ceremony at the Canadian Embassy.  It was good to see the officers that I trained with in Ottawa and Kingston once again.  I rarely get to see them and it's nice to catch up on their adventures, their vacations, and compare notes.

A couple weeks ago the members of my camp accepted a soccer challenge from our Afghan colleagues for a friendly match.  They showed up in uniforms and as it turns out had considerable skills.  They beat us down badly and ran circles around us.  After a while enthusiasm gave way to talent and we accepted our loss.  It was a good team-building exercise and there were lots of smiles and handshakes afterwards.  The guard in the watchtower was our only spectator.

I've been back up the hill a few more times.  We have to share the hill these days with a shepherd and his flock of sheep and goats. 

Apparently nasty old beasts like this don't like it when you look at them straight in the eye and really don't like sharing the trail.  No problem.......Nice goat.

 

Thanks for checking in.

Ken.

Kabul's Kids II

 Yesterday we spent much of the day on the road driving through Kabul.  We were lucky enough to catch kids on their way to school and coming home after school. All these pictures were taken from a moving vehicle so pardon the quality.  Its difficult to get out for a stroll on Kabul streets and meet folks but hopefully these photos will give you a feel for the city and its people.

 

We started off our day with a smile and a solid "Thumbs Up" from this young fella on his way to school.

 In parts of town you may find garden plots like this one.  This plot is situated close to the Kabul River which runs through town and thanks to steady rains and snow melt actually has a considerable amount of water flowing through it.

 In contrast to the mostly brown landscapes and smog that I see from my camp, most of the young girls and women are dressed in very bright and beautiful clothes.  Note the ever present dust kicked up off the road.

 On each trip into town we see fruit and vegetable merchants by the side of the road.  This man is selling lettuce today.  We've seen a number of strawberry merchants as well using carts similar to these.  They arrange the strawberries with the pointed ends facing up and it looks very nice.  They splash water on them to keep their produce moist.  You can see some water flying onto the lettuce in this photo. They look fresh and healthy but we don't eat them.  The gastronomical consequences are too severe.

 Water is drawn from communal pumps like this one located on the side of roads.  Communal dumpsters also dot the streets but make for lousy pictures.  Those bins fill up quickly and overflow.  Goat herders bring their flocks to pick through the garbage piles and eat up any scraps of food.

 

 This little man was pushing this wheelbarrow down the street backwards at a very quick pace.  In fact he was running with it.  

Its not all pleasure trips through Kabul.  I actually do have to work.  Here I'm giving a seminar on money laundering to a group of Afghan police officers.  My PowerPoint needed to be translated into Dari and I instructed through a translator.

Thanks for checking in.

Ken.