I’m well into the third quarter of my mission now and thought it might be appropriate to share a few of the lessons I’ve learned so far. If you are considering coming to Kabul on any type of assignment these pointers may come in handy. Just remember that there is a context to all these observations and they are based mostly on my experience working on a secure facility in Kabul. Make no mistake; serving in Kabul is a completely different experience than serving in other parts of Afghanistan. In most ways Kabul is a more secure location and most of the Kabul Afghans are appreciative of the NATO presence. Most children go to school, literacy rates are higher here than in most Afghan cities, the infrastructure is better, and people tend to be more in touch with what is happening in politics, business, and economics locally and internationally. You’ll see lots of people on cell phones and many young people surf the web. I’ve met many soldiers, diplomats, and police officers who work in other parts of Afghanistan and they’ll be quick to tell you that there are two very different wars going on in Afghanistan, the first being in Kabul and the second in the rest of the country.
So here, in no particular order, are some ‘nuggets of wisdom’ that have been passed down to me by veterans or that I have stumbled upon myself. Much of what I will share relates to advising the Afghan police on criminal investigations.
- When dealing with Western advisors the Afghans tend to avoid confrontation. They will tend to agree with you, tell you that you are very wise and full of good ideas but in the end most times they will follow their own schedules and their own counsels. This can be frustrating. Unless you are in a position to exercise some leverage such as funding or providing equipment you’d better quickly adjust your expectations of exactly how much you’ll be able to influence the Afghan military and police. It is a slow process but our work here does advance their skill sets, capacities, and experience.
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| Driving through Kabul you are guaranteed to see a scene like this. These small beasts haul huge loads of timber, pipes, and produce. They can really motor along too. |
- Similarly, one must always remember that we are guests in this country. I can provide sound advice, good training, direction, and encouragement but in the end it is the Afghans who are in charge of their investigations. This is exactly as it should be. But for results-oriented criminal investigators the pace and course of the investigation can be frustrating.
- I must always remember that I really don’t know much about daily life in Kabul nor can I begin to appreciate the consequences of what 30 years of war has done to the Afghans emotionally, physically, or psychologically. Try to practice empathy always. When you look at an Afghan remember that it’s virtually guaranteed that they have lost at least one loved one in the last few years to insurgency-related violence. They likely have a home full of people to support and few have the means to get by. Every day is a struggle. They are tired and without much hope that their situation will improve very much, if at all.
- Don’t ever underestimate the dangers of being a member of the Afghan National Police. In 2010 over 7,000 police officers were killed on duty. Police die here in numbers almost every other day. They and their families become targets of insurgents and the criminal mafias that infest every aspect of Afghan politics and business.
- Drink lots of bottled water everyday.
- Arrive in Afghanistan in good physical shape. Stay fit and exercise while you are here. Exercise will keep you sane and provide a healthy avenue to burn off nervous energy, boredom, and anxiety.
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| An outdoor meat shop in Kabul. We've driven past this shop a few times. Once we saw the freshly butchered calf on the dirt in front of the shop and another one calf standing by the red stool apparently waiting for his turn. They skin the animal right there on the road and then hang it up. I don't recommend eating street meat. |
- Find a hobby or other distraction and use your downtime to be productive. Most of the large camps have a wide variety of social activities and programs to fill your evenings. Learn another language while you’re here, take some online courses if you can but do something. It’s a long year otherwise.
- Don’t become too comfortable or complacent with security but also relax a bit. We’ve seen some people so alert and jumpy that they simply can’t operate in this environment. For them, every vehicle that passes in traffic is a car bomb, every traffic jam an ambush, every loud noise is an explosion. You simply won’t last if you can’t manage the stress. Be smart but don’t be paranoid.
- Figure out how to use Skype long before you get here. Skype is a lifeline home. I can’t imagine being without it.
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| One of the many graveyards in Kabul. Those are headstones, most with no inscriptions. Kids will play soccer in this particular cemetery which is actually quite a bit bigger than the picture suggests. There is an even bigger one just down the road from this one you see here. |
- Earthquakes happen, don’t freak out like I did when that first tremor rocks you.
- Bring as little as possible. Everything you need can be found at the shops in the camps and bases.
- Seek out opportunities to get involved with some type of civil activity outside your particular job. Make some connection to Afghanistan or Kabul outside your work. You’ll be exposed to a whole different experience, one that is equally or even more satisfying.
- You will get sick, often. Accept it. It’s not always going to put you out of commission but when it hits hard you’ll know. When you do become ill take it easy and rest for a couple of days. The food in the mess halls is almost always fine but be very careful about eating any food from restaurants or markets. I would not recommend it. Always travel with some extra clean underwear and never, ever trust an Afghan fart!
- Finally, at least once find a cool place to meet your family for leave. Try the island of Cephalonia, Greece....
or Bodrum, Turkey.
Thanks for checking in.
Ken.
